A Week in Chernihiv
I decided to take a break from kitchen work and coordinating the volunteer schedule, and come to Chernihiv for a week's break. Chernihiv is 150 km (93 miles) northeast of Kyiv, a small but beautiful, interesting city, It was first mentioned in historic records in 907, but archaeological excavations indicate that it existed at least as early as the 9th century (i.e. more than 300 years before Moscow!) It has many lovely churches, the remains of a citadel, overlooking the Desna River, and a beautiful square, called just this in Ukrainian! "Красна площа" (Beautiful square).
As with many places in Ukraine, Chernihiv has a traumatised, much reduced population, following its brutal occupation during the first weeks of Russia's full-scale illegal invasion in 2022. Tanks also rolled into surrounding villages, destroying property and, in some cases, herding the civilian population into school basements. Atrocities and deaths occurred. My friend, Ala's, newly built house in the village of Ivanivka was reduced to rubble. Her daughter had to give birth in a basement.
At the end of what is now known as the Siege of Chernihiv, more than half of the city's population of almost 300,000 had fled. The total civilian casualty count is unknown but is estimated that 350–400 civilians were killed. Ukrainian resistance in Chernihiv, eventually leading to Russian withdrawal on 5 April 2022, is said to have been critical in preventing the Russian military from succeeding its assault on the capital, Kyiv.
Much of the historic centre was badly damaged. This was the Ukraine Hotel, Chernihiv, after an "Iskander" missile attack on 12 March, 2022. Fortunately, no-one was staying there.
And now it is designated as a "Place of Memories."
Chernihiv is not as close to the Russian border as Kharkiv, but close enough to be subject to frequent drone attacks, sometimes missiles, meaning regular sirens. Perhaps, then, a strange place to come for a break, but this is Ukraine and it would take a day to travel somewhere relatively safe. And I've enjoyed being out in the wonderful, early Autumn weather - the days are still sunny but not too hot, perfect for walking in parks and sitting on benches.
I've met up with my friend, Ala, an English teacher, who acted as an interpreter when I was delivering aid to the villages in Chernihiv region. She and her husband were eventually offered an apartment in Chernihiv to replace their destroyed house. Ala moved from teaching at her village school to a private language centre in the city, but the pay is so poor that she is going to try giving private lessons. Her husband lost his job and his business premises in the Russian attacks on their village. He and Ala run an animal shelter that that they started at the beginning of the full-scale invasion. Now they have 34 dogs, 2 cats and 4 parrots! So Ala's money has to stretch to feeding all the animals, as well as herself and her husband.
Ala's daughter, in her 20s, is desperate to move out of Ukraine with her 3-year-old daughter (born in a basement) to escape the stress of constant sirens and drones, but after 3 and a half years of war it's difficult to find refuge in Europe or elsewhere. If any readers of this blog can help, please contact me or put a comment at the end of this post.
Meanwhile, back in Kharkiv, Hell's Kitchen is as busy as ever, including a steady turnaround of foreign volunteers. A couple of weeks ago we had a "deep cleaning" day, which is a day when no food is prepared but the whole kitchen is cleaned thoroughly, from top to bottom.
Afterwards we had a thank you message from Liuda, the kitchen manager, who said that she had woken up that morning and fleetingly wondered if there was any point to it all, but then she received a message from a soldier who was being treated at the Emergency Hospital we provide food for. He asked staff who was feeding him so wonderfully and they said, "Hell's Kitchen." So he sent a message, thanking the Kitchen. This brought Liuda back to the reality that, in her words, "there are people right now who desperately need our attention, our warmth, and our service. Because they are also sacrificing what is most valuable so that we can live at home,"... which says it all, really.
On Monday 1 September about 17,000 children in Kharkiv began attending 7 purpose-built, underground schools. One parent said: “The school is three floors down, and we were told it is the deepest school in Kharkiv. That’s why I believe it is safe. We did not expect it would be possible this year, but as a parent, I was desperate for my child to be able to attend normal school.”
A new underground school opened in Saltivskyi District on the outskirts of Kharkiv, which has been heavily bombed.
(Photos Gwara Media)
The importance of children being able to see each other and learn in person, rather than remotely, cannot be overstated. Three more new underground schools are being built, set to open on January 1, 2026. Sadly, they may be needed.
Children are shown, running from an incoming drone attack, in the first scene of this insightful, half hour documentary on the people who chose to remain in Kharkiv, told by them.
"Kharkiv War Diaries: Stories from a City on the Edge," BBC World Service Documentaries
Donations
Thank you for all donations received. One resulted in 50 T-shirts being sent to soldiers on the frontline. Donations sent to Adults For Children have helped buy medicines and vitamins for children with disabilities.
I have known a little girl in Kherson, where I used to deliver aid, for nearly 3 years, when she would have been about 4 years old. Unfortunately, over these years, she has developed an eye disease and her eyesight has deteriorated significantly, which means that she needs special, expensive glasses. She has to be taken regularly for treatment at the regional children's hospital, which is a great risk for her mother and her, as Kherson is significantly more dangerous than Kharkiv, given that the Russians are close enough (just over the river) to fly drones to hunt people down on the streets. Coco (her nickname) is now in second grade (online of course) and needs printed text books, which were prohibitively expensive for her mother, and so I funded them. She sent me a video message, saying "thank you," in perfect English. She is a very special girl.
To make a donation to the regular causes I support, please open PayPal and, when asked for email, enter sunflower_house@hotmail.co.uk
You can specify where you would like your donation to go, including whether or not you wish to support a civilian only cause; otherwise I will send the money where I think the need is greatest. You can also make a donation to shelters for animals, abandoned because of the war.
Adults For Children supports families displaced by the war, and also local soldiers.
Hell's Kitchen cooks daily, nutritious meals and bakes bread, for hospitals, wounded soldiers and others in need.
Franklin, Hell's Kitchen foreign volunteer coordinator, supports soldiers and medics on the frontline.
Inya runs a small group of volunteers who make camouflage nets, ghillie suits and stretchers.
Thank you
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