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3 Weeks in Kharkiv

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When I got off the train in Kharkiv over 3 weeks ago, the first thing to greet me was an air raid siren which, however you want to look at it, is a sign of coming home. It's taken me a little time to adjust to some of the changes in my volunteer coordination role, but what hasn't changed is the warm welcome and affection every day in Hell's Kitchen. From that perspective, it felt as if I never left. Winter is finally changing to spring. It's difficult to describe the daily difficulties and stress of a hard, cold winter, even without the war - wearing enough layers of clothing, boots, crampons, always looking at your feet to avoid slipping (again!) on refrozen snow, the shrinking of life because it's really too cold to go anywhere. One of the foreign volunteers put it eloquently: "Perhaps one of my biggest takeaways this time is the snow. The hardship of winter, the fragility of life/injury due to nature not aggression." Now the first bulbs can be seen, the...

Return to Ukraine

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I write this as I return on the Przemyśl to Kharkiv train, after a 3-week break in England and Iceland (where the title photo was taken). I was away for the 4 year commemoration of Russia's brutal, illegal invasion of Ukraine. It was almost 4 years ago that I began a journey that has really transformed me, from Krakow to Lviv to Odesa to Kharkiv (nearly 2 years ago). This could be a very bleak post. The bombardment of Ukraine continues, against energy and transport infrastructure, and civilian homes. More than a million Ukrainians have been without electricity, heating and water during the coldest winter in years, with temperatures dropping to -20C and below outside, and to 5 or 6°C inside apartments. This cynical bombing campaign is sometimes described as the kholodomor (death by cold). https://www.theguardian.com/world/2026/feb/24/four-years-ukraine-invasion-russia-gains-small-ukraine-remains-resilient?CMP=share_btn_url A person walks down a street in central Khar...

Winter, bombing, resilience...

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A few nights ago Kharkiv was bombed for more than three hours. According to the city's Mayor, strikes targeted energy infrastructure, seemingly with the cynical goal of inflicting maximum destruction and difficulty on the coldest night of the year, I believe, with a low of -24° C. In order to prevent freezing of the network, city authorities had to drain the coolant in the heat supply system of 820 houses, serviced by one of the largest power stations. There was disruption of electric transport (underground trains, trams, etc, which has continued) so additional bus routes were launched. "Kharkiv will survive," Ігор Терехов (Ihor Terehov), Mayor, wrote in his Telegram channel, 03.02.2026. That night was nearly a repeat of the previous week, when 25 Shahed drones attacked the city over a period of 2.5 hours. 46 people were injured, including two children; one woman died. Apart from the short-lived 'truce' over last weekend, when attacks on energy infrastructure paus...

Cold

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  The temperature of -19°C is shown on the House of Trade Unions, next to the Independence Monument on Independence Square, Kyiv, 15 January (Getty Images/AFP/Sergei). According to ChatGPT, linguists generally say that, across all human languages, there are likely hundreds, possible thousands, of words for snow and ice, and as many or more for describing cold, although I don't feel that we use many of them. My favourite for feeling extremely cold is "bone chilling," which is what we're experiencing now in the depths of winter in Ukraine. Today's daytime temperature of - 11/- 12 degrees centigrade is about my lower limit for being able to walk around comfortably, with all my layers, including a thick winter coat and good boots... These are the temperatures here in Kharkiv for the next week. So far, I'm lucky to be able to return to a cosy, warm apartment, although who knows for how long? In Kharkiv, on 15 January, Russian strikes destroyed a large critical ener...